Part 13

Surfing in Mexico

There are times when the line-up gets so crowded that you have to leave your
local break and head to some other place to commune with the Ocean. You can be
surfing one of the Outer Reefs in La Jolla with fifty other people, but they are
all locals, all known to you, as a friend, brother or sister of a friend, schoolmate,
somebody's father, or a good-friend of some other local. So what can you do?

Can't shout out for them to go home, because this is their home!

Can't fight with your best friend's kook older brother, because in spite of
his ineptness, he has just as much right to be out here as you do--unless he breaks
the Rules, and then shades of the beating of Dogboy or the Upnorth Surfer.

Nothing like a good fight between Acquaintances.

So you go to Mexico, or Bali, or Oz, or South America or Ireland or the Unnamed Spots
off the coast of Russia or the Unmapped Spot. But you go because you have to.

In the movie, Brew gathers up the dissipated Bruce and they head across the border
into Baja California, down Highway One, past T.J., Ensenada, the Lagoon.

They trek to one of their favorite Secret Spots, only to see riders of the waves.

unknown surfer
Who be surfing my spot?

unknown surfer II
What two dogs be surfing my spot?

Who are these guys, anyway? Person can't come down to their secret spot without finding
it crowded with unknown comics making a mockery of the place. Wait a minute!!??

maybe known surfer
What's up?

Do I know this guy?
What?

In the Old Days: forties, fifties, even sixties, every surfer had an individual style
which set them apart from the others. They could be recognized by their style or
lack thereof. This was before the Clones came to town. The inseparables. The wannabees.
So Brewster and Bruce study the style of these surfers from a distance and notice the
the resemblance to a couple of good La Jolla surfers, Tim Senneff and Chris Phillips.

known surfer
Tim!! Why are you here?

Of course, it is them! Mexico, especially Baja, has no secret spots. Mainland Mexico
is no different. From its inception, Surfer Magazine outed them. Wide-eyed
camera-boyz like Divine, a La Jolla local, earned their living pasting up the photographs
of the unknown spots so every clown on the planet with some coin and time could plunder
the waves of some far off shore. Rape the sea, pillage the village, and then go back home.

Not our local boys, however. They know the Rules They live by them.

In Mexico, if you don't live by the Rules, you can go to Jail. And sometimes the Federalis
forget to abide by the Rules. Then you are headed for some bad shit. No get out of Jail free.

the guns
when in Mexico, watch your step

They spend a couple of days with the fellows and then head further South. Mainland. Bus.

mexican red
the clouds over Mex

the Mexican busride
Wake me in the morning.

In the morning, they climb off the bus, gather their belongings and boards to a small
hotel and head to a local restaraunt for some mexican breakfast.

burrito breakfast
Always ready for Eat.

Then they walk down to the beach to check out the surf. It is good.

path
the walk

It is not empty.

unknown surfer
Who be surfing my spot?

This spot belongs to the Mexicans. No one else need lay a claim. Just tourists.

colors
the morning spectrum

Our intrepid travelers understand this and they stand on the beach for several minutes
before they venture into the Surf to relax and commune with the Sea.

To be Continued

mexican red
mexican herb garden

The Mexican Farms flourish in the tropical heat of the long hot summer.

Backward to Part 13: Girls: California and Other Worlds

Forward to Part 14: the Rough Water Drink: the End

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