Part 3
Southern California Son
A Simple MisUnderstanding
Small, fun, crowded surf along the reefs at WindanSea Beach in
La Jolla, California.
What else is new? The place has been crowded for years, going back to
World War II. There were
no secret spots in California, just spots that no body ever rode. In
the forties and fifties, why surf
at Ralphs or Tijuana Sloughs when you could go to San Onofre or Malibu
or WindanSea and surf with only
fifteen or twenty people out. Is this a crowd? Not if you know and respect
each other, sharing the waves.
But the movie takes place in 1979, 1980 and the crowds of 60 have been
there for fifteen, twenty years.
You are part of the crowd! Your father tells stories of surfing here
with his buddies, friends who lived
in diverse spots such as Malibu, Santa Monica, Imperial Beach, even,
[sssssshhhhhhhh!!! not so loud] Pasadena.
Pasadena!!!??? What the hell is going on here? A surfer from Pasadena?
And he can stand up? Turn,
you say? You must be shitting me! That's him? All two hundred twenty
pounds, six foot three. Good.
He can surf here all he wants---as long as there is an understanding
of the Rules.
A person has got to learn the Rules, lest there be Anarchy.
WindanSea Rats sniffing out the Steroid Surfer, circa 1980
In the movie, Bruce surfs for several hours. In the water, he exchanges
boards with his friends.
He takes a break and goes into the beach and tries out different wetsuits
for their elasticity and warmth.
Bruce Byerly speeding toward ecstasy
heading in the backdoor
need more speed
lip coming down
covered
inside
hello
He has a good time. And then a man snakes him on a wave. Then a second
wave.
The snake is riding a soft Doyle board. They exchange words. They collide
on a wave.
Their boards ride into shore on the waves, sans them. They both swim.
They exchange words on the beach.
nothin like a good conversation to stoke the fires
Bruce goes back out into the water and surfs with the other La Jolla boys.
Richard Kenvin is out, demonstrating the high cutback.
the cut back
same wave, further down the line, the cut back
still the same wave
getting closer to shore, same wave: the cut back
After surfing for two hours, Bruce goes onto the beach and changes his
clothes.
He heads up the small cliff to reach his car and drive home. He meets
his talk buddy.
More talk ensues. Bruce heads up the hillside to meet his foe.
the invitation
the confrontation: meet my friends
the beating
the toss
taking a break
nature feels the negative energy and takes out Joe Roper
Bruce recovers sufficiently to get his board on his car and start the
drive home along Neptune Place.
the Brolaski house is on the left as he approaches Nautilus Street and
the Lot
Short video of Bruce driving the Machine as he leaves on Neptune Place.
The waves are still happening, just not for our intrepid hero.
Tom Ortner calls nature back to her forgiving self
The dusk moves over the town.
a large set wave for Andy Tyler
The sun sets over La Jolla, closing another day at a California beach.
sunset over Horseshoe
TO BE CONTINUED
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