Tom Ortner at Windansea Beach
Hey BA -
"You're always flapping about surfing "style" and how some of today's surfers just don't get it.
Are you still drinking or even worse - are you still smoking something?
The reason I care about style, is really - at least to me - very clear - plus - this is not the first time you kooks
have challenged me about my style thoughts, and provoked me into writting another rant -
But, at least I've been consistent with my "rules" and opinions:
1. Always have control of your board.
2. The hands say it all - kindda like sign language.
If one's hands are flying about - and if one's body is twisting one way and then the other way - there ain't no surfboard control here - and guess who might be paddling out - trying to avoid the unguided missile - yeah - correcto - ME!
By the way - I was gonna use a mag for a fish wrapper, but I started to read it instead, and guess what -
It's not just me, you little kooks - here's somebody with whom maybe you can relate:
[But first, look at this Doug Moranville photo of David Rullo - about 30 years ago]
View still photographs of David Rullo at Windansea
Below is recent video of La Jolla surfers at the Unknown Reef.
From: Transworld Surf - January 2002 - "Does Style Really Matter? A conversation
with Rob Machado" written by Joel Patterson -
Rob sez, in response to Patterson's question regarding style:
"I think style is something you either have or you don't. I consider surfing somewhat of an artform, and I really
appreciate waves are ridden. I love watching guys like Skip Frye.."
Rob sez in response to Patterson's question regarding how hands are part of a surf style:
"That was one thing that Curren was always amazing with.
You'd see bottom-turn photos of him, and his back hand would be a centimeter above the water - perfectly
not touching the water- and his front hand would be leading.
Little things like that have always caught my eye. He's on a twelve-foot wave at Todos, and his hand is perfectly trimming...He just connects everything perfectly. Joel Tudor does that quite well..."
BA again sez:
"If I'm correct with my assumptions - Rob is a pretty young guy - and wasn't he the best surfer in the world just a few years ago?
And yet - style to him is important - hands positioning is important - board control is obviously important.
So all I have to say to you idiots / kooks:
Think about style, think about board control, go back and look again at the Rullo photos!
Have some style - and you [and I] will be a lot safer in the water!"
---my next rant will be about the rape of Black's
Love and kisses to all you little sweethearts out there, floundering in the water,
what you dream of, I did . . .
B.A.
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